The Burning Issue
Having a summer barbecue? Watch what you put on it
Daily Telegraph , July 2006
Behind a locked gate somewhere in Richmond Park,
in Surrey, is a hidden clearing in a wood of beech,
birch and oak. The clearing is dotted with stacks of
logs and lined on one side with three battered old tractors.
Pink foxgloves grow in the spaces that have been opened
up by the thinning of trees.
In the centre of the clearing stand two enormous rusty
kilns. One of them is stacked full of cut wood, on top
of which rests a wide, round lid. The other is full
of charcoal. In the middle of it, wearing a grey boiler
suit and a protective helmet, stands Simon Levy, charcoal
maker. He is shifting great spadeloads of charcoal into
bags. As he does so, the clearing fills with grey dust,
through which the midsummer sunlight filters before
it hits the thin trunks of the oak trees beyond.
‘I can’t tell you how lucky I am to be
here’, he says, through his mask. ‘This
park is just stunning.’
Levy has been a charcoal maker for a decade, and has
worked in this patch of woodland for half that time.
This time of year, as millions of us drag our barbecues
from the shed and dust them off for the summer, is his
busiest. He is passionate about the woods he manages,
and passionate, too, about getting people to understand
that when they buy charcoal, they should buy British.
This is not some jingoistic prejudice, he says: it’s
about a genuine example of that much overused phrase
‘sustainable development.’
When he’s finished shovelling, and changed out
of his stifling costume, he walks me around the clearing
explaining what he means. Over ninety percent of the
charcoal we buy for our barbecues, he explains, is imported.
A good deal of that will be the by-product of destructive
tropical logging, or the clearing of mangrove swamps
for shrimp farms. Millions of bags of half-burned tropical
wood will be flown halfway around the world so that
we can burn it further to cook our sausages. Meanwhile,
our own woodlands are neglected and underused.
‘This is an industry that can that benefit environment,
economy and society’, he tells me, ‘and
there are very few examples of that. Take this woodland
here. When I came in it was overgrown and dark. The
trees were too close together, so some of them would
die off. What I’ve done is to open it up. That
has meant that wildlife has flourished and I’ve
produced wood products like planks, firewood and charcoal
which I can make something of a living from.’
Levy speaks from experience. A qualified environmental
scientist and professional forester he has seen, and
helped to manage, forests all over the world. He certifies
woodlands for the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC),
an international body which promotes responsible forestry,
and is one of the founders of the Bioregional Charcoal
Company (BRCC).
Now in its 11 th year, BRCC co-ordinates a national
network of 25 charcoal producers like Simon, producing
300 tons of charcoal a year. They say that their charcoal
produces 85% less CO2, the main greenhouse gas, than
the imported variety – largely because there is
no need to fly it around the world. Their work supports
16 rural jobs and the sustainable management of around
400 hectares of woodland.
As Simon Levy explains, the apparent paradox is that
having people like him working in our woodlands, producing
wood products for sale, is the best environmental approach.
‘You have to remember that British woods are
a manmade environment’ he says. ‘We don’t
have intact virgin forest; the nearest thing we have
is ancient semi-natural woodland, and that environment
is the result of coppicing and felling. The wildlife
– the fritillary butterflies, the nightingales
– all relate to the management of the woodland.
If we don’t manage it, the diversity disappears.’
As the evening sun floods the glade, Levy shows me
how his kilns work. First you fill a kiln with dry wood,
he tells me: you lay air channels in the shape of a
cartwheel at the base, and light it with bits of charcoal
that haven’t quite made the grade. After an hour
you fix chimneys on the top and seal the air inlets
with sand. Very little air gets into the kiln as it
burns, but enough to do the job. After 28 hours the
burn is finished, and – assuming you have let
just the right amount of air in – you have a kiln
full of charcoal. It sounds, I say to him, like a real
skill.
‘No, not at all’, he says, cheerily. ‘A
baboon could do it! It just gives me the opportunity
to spend my time here, hopefully to improve it –
and just to mess about, really. I love this place, and
I love getting dirty.’ He grins. ‘I know
how lucky I am.’
Bioregional Charcoal Company products can be purchased
at B&Q and Asda. http://www.bioregional.com/programme_projects/forestry_prog/charcoal/char_hmpg.htm
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